Wednesday 7 June 2017

Sennelier Watercolours - full range

The French brand Sennelier, which has been around since 1887, make a huge range of wonderful art materials - inks, pastels, all sorts of paints, dry pigments and so on. I've used their oil pastels for years but I've actually never bought any of their watercolours, so this post is created entirely with the help of others :-)

The watercolour range of 98 colours was reformulated a few years ago with a higher honey content. Quoted from the Sennelier website -

"Honey has many virtues: a symbol of light and sun, an emblem of poetry and science and has been used since Ancient times as a remedy for dry skin and to help heal wounds. This nectar is used in L'Aquarelle Sennelier not only as a preservative but as an additive giving incomparable brilliance and smoothness to the paint. Always striving for excellence, Sennelier has reworked its watercolor formula with increasing the amount of Honey in the paint to reinforce the longevity of the colors, their radiance and luminosity."

Unfortunately, honey also makes watercolours stay more runny, so this has made it far more challenging to get hold of samples as they don't necessarily dry enough to be posted through the mail - lots of inventive solutions including using blister packs from chewing gum, contact lenses and tablets have needed to be devised.

48 half pan set of
Sennelier L'Aquarelle Watercolours

However they are also available in 1/2 and full pan form, and one of my students lent me her 48 colour pan set so I was able to fill a number of gaps.

In March 2019 I was finally able to fill the rest of the gaps and show the full range :-) So here is the Sennelier professional or L'Aquarelle range. There is also a student range called La Petite.

The set uses the same palette as Rembrandt, but includes this useful overlay showing what each colour is.

The full colour chart can be seen here

There is a Sennelier shop in Paris, opposite the Louvre at 3 Quai Voltaire that is apparently a joy to visit - see some comments below. In Australia, they can be found at Adamstown Art

For those who use watercolours straight from the tube, Sennelier (and M.Graham) tube colours are a possible choice. For those who, like me, use them dried out in palettes, the pan versions are the best options with this range. They rewet beautifully.

Here is the 48 colour set open.



As always, I have tried to colour-match as well as possible but this is just a guide to the actual colours. Here is the key to the symbols
Nickel Yellow is often a very weak yellow but this version, while still relatively gentle, painted out nicely.
Sennelier L'Aquarelle professional Watercolours - Titanium White, Chinese White, Nickel Yellow,
Lemon Yellow, Cadmium Lemon Yellow.


 The Indian Yellow is warmer than it looks here.
Sennelier L'Aquarelle professional Watercolours -  Aureoline (not a recommended pigment),
Primary Yellow, Cadmium Yellow Light, Sennelier Yellow Light, Indian Yellow.


Sennelier L'Aquarelle professional Watercolours - Yellow Lake, Naples Yellow, Yellow Sophie,
Naples Yellow Deep, Cadmium Yellow Deep .

These warm yellows and oranges are lovely.
Sennelier L'Aquarelle professional Watercolours - Sennelier Yellow Deep, 
Cadmium Yellow Orange, Red Orange, Sennelier Orange, Chinese Orange.


There are some gorgeous bright warm reds in this range!
Sennelier L'Aquarelle professional Watercolours - French Vermilion, Scarlet Laquer, 
Rose Dore Madder Lake, Bright Red, Cadmium Red Light.


Rose Madder Lake is the colour usually referred to as Quinacridone Rose or Permanent Rose - a great cool red option, hough Carmine is the same pigment and also very pretty if you want a slightly more crimson option..
Sennelier L'Aquarelle professional Watercolours - Alizarin Crimson (this is a permanent hue),
Carmine, Crimson Lake, Quinacridone Red, Rose Madder Lake.


Sennelier L'Aquarelle professional Watercolours - Sennelier Red, Perylen Brown,
Cadmium Red Purple, Alizarin Crimson Lake (not recommended due to poor lightfast rating of this pigment), Venetian Red.


Sennelier L'Aquarelle professional Watercolours - Opera Rose, Cobalt Violet Light Hue,
Permanent Magenta, Cobalt Violet Deep Hue, Red Violet.


Sennelier L'Aquarelle professional Watercolours - Helios Purple, Blue Violet, Dioxazine Purple, Prussian Blue, Indigo.


The French Ultramarine Blue is a two pigment mix so go with the Ultramarine Deep if you want a single pigment Ultramarine.
Sennelier L'Aquarelle professional Watercolours - Blue Indanthrone, Cobalt Deep, Cobalt Blue, Ultramarine Deep, French Ultramarine Blue.


'Blue Sennelier' is often referred to as Phthalo Blue Red Shade. 
Sennelier L'Aquarelle professional Watercolours - Ultramarine Light, Blue Sennelier, 
Phthalo Blue, Cinereous Blue, Royal Blue 


  It's unusual to see a Cerulean made with PB28 rather than PB35 or PB36.
Sennelier L'Aquarelle professional Watercolours - Cerulean Blue, Cerulean Blue Red Shade,
Turquoise Green, Cobalt Green, Phthalo Turquoise.


There isn't a single pigment Phthalo Green PG7, but the mixed pigment Viridian is a rather nice option.
Sennelier L'Aquarelle professional Watercolours - Forest Green, Phthalo Green Deep, Viridian, Emerald Green, Sennelier Green.


The Olive green is a lovely premixed green. I don't know where the 'Brown Pink' gets it name...
Sennelier L'Aquarelle professional Watercolours - Olive Green, Phthalo Green LIght, Bright Yellow Green, Brown Green, Brown Pink.


The Sap Green is also a very usable foliage green mix. I love the granulation of the opaque Chromium Oxide Green - a colour I've never used but always rather like...
Sennelier L'Aquarelle professional Watercolours - Cadmium Green Light, Hooker's Green,
Chromium Oxide Green, Green Earth, Sap Green.


 The Quinacridone Gold is a nice version, even though a three pigment mix.
Sennelier L'Aquarelle professional Watercolours - French Ochre, Light Yellow Ochre,
Yellow Ochre, Gold Ochre, Quinacridone Gold.


 I'm always happy to see a PBr7 Burnt Sienna. Caput Mortuum is like a deep Indian Red.
Sennelier L'Aquarelle professional Watercolours - Burnt Sienna,
Permanent Alizarin Crimson Deep, Caput Mortuum, Payne's Grey, Neutral Tint.


Sennelier L'Aquarelle professional Watercolours - Van Cyck Brown, Warm Sepia, Raw Umber, Raw Sienna, Burnt Umber.


Sennelier L'Aquarelle professional Watercolours - Transparent Brown, Warm Grey, Sennelier Grey, Greenish Umber,
Light Grey


Sennelier L'Aquarelle professional Watercolours - Lamo Black, Ivory Black, Raw Sepia

I hope this will be useful for those looking at Sennelier - especially if you are in or near France :-)

A 12-colour sketching palette suggestion would be pans (rather than tubes) of Lemon Yellow (as a cool yellow) or Primary Yellow; Sennelier Yellow Deep or Quinacidone Gold as a warm yellow; Scarlet Laquer or Rose DOre Madder Lake (my favourite warm red pigment) or French Vermilion as a warm red; Rose Madder Lake or Carmine as a cool red; Ultramarine Deep as a warm blue; Cobalt Green as a cool blue - an unusual choice as it is a turquoise, but it is non-staining, or use Phthalo Blue; Sap Green or Olive Green as a convenient green; Yellow Ochre as an earth yellow; Burnt Sienna as an earth orange; Caput Mortuum as an earth red; then Warm Grey as a convenience light for marble and stone; Payne's Grey as a convenient dark.

Happy painting!


61 comments:

  1. Warm gray almost looks like Buff Titanium.

    I notice their Rose Madder is PV19 but they don't call it "hue".

    Thanks for the info about the honey. I bought some half pans from Greenleaf and Blueberry and they use honey in their paints. I'm not that familiar with honey as an additive as Daniel Smith doesn't use it. I did notice that the samples I painted were taking a while to dry. I think this might make my small set really good for Plein Air since the paint won't dry quite as fast. They colors lend themselves really well to landscapes so I'll be taking it out at some point.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. They don't refer to any as a hue, though the Alizarin Crimson is also a hue.

      Yes the Warm Grey is very close in colour to Buff Titanium but without the gorgeous granulation. Still, for those who can't get hold of DS and want that lovely ecru colour, it's nice to know there is a convenient option available.


      I resist honey in Australia - it does seem to cause some problems and can even attract bugs. I haven't tried the Greenleaf and Blueberry paints but would like to at some stage. However I think it's time to try making my own watercolours next...without honey.

      Delete
  2. I have an 8 paints tube set from Sennelier and chucked out my Koi 12 pancolors to reuse the travel kit for the Sennelier paint tubes together with a couple from Mrs. Grahams from the Art Snacks box. Best decision I made to upgrade! It took 3-4 days to dry completely in the half pans. I do LOVE how these flow and work together with Mrs. Grahams as they should because now I know they are both honey based :)
    Have you tried the student set from sennelier/compared them to the artiste set? I have the chance to purchase the la petit tubes in 24 colors for a good price but an doubting to do so because of quality shifts... go for it or is it wise to save up to get the artist quality? any thoughts?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I haven't tried the student sets from Sennelier. I am concentrating on artist quality so I can explore the varied characteristics of the pigments. Student sets tend to be far more homogeneous. I always think it is better to use artist grade if possible as the colours are more highly pigmented and easier to work with.

      Delete
    2. Random note that doesn't answer your question - I did the exact same thing. Used a Koi and then switched over to Sennelier. Took time to adjust to not dabbing the paint as strongly (with student grade, really have to poke at the pan to get enough colour), but also experienced the different qualities of the different colours (artist grade- they're all kinda the same?).

      Delete
    3. if you're wandering in here late as i have done the answer is that i have used both & the student grade stinks. as a newbie when i started w.c. i dove into learning about mixing my own colors & invested in a set of d. smith warm & cool triads. that was the best advice i got back then & i have never been sorry so i am passing it on to anyone who needs it. don't waste money on lots of cheap paints nor all the fancy stuff that so many say you need, just get a couple of decent brushes (you do not need kolinsky sable & keep in mind some countries call every brush sable), get some decent 100% cotton paper, your small set of good paints & have at it. once you get going you should have saved up enough to buy more supplies while still having interest in watercolor. good luck!

      Delete
  3. Honey doesn't automatically mean drippy paint, it's all about the amount you use. I happen to really like it, so I make my own paints with enough that they're slightly tacky, but still solid in the pan, they definitely aren't runny. I carry a tin of them in my purse absolutely everywhere and I've never had a mess. So if you do make your own paint and want to try a honey formula, you can still reap the benefits without the drawback of sticky paint, just use less honey and more glycerin. I've never had a pest problem with mine, but I also use clove oil as a preservative, perhaps that helps keep bugs away.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Good point that honey doesn't necessarily make paints runny. I have yet to make my own properly - I tried a little using some gum Arabic, a touch of clove oil and distilled water.
      Certainly the MG and Sennelier tubes I have tried have been too runny for our humid climate.

      Delete
    2. Making some of my own watercolors i use gum arabic and glycerine. These two I use in even parts and thus I need less water. Glycerine also prevents bacteria from making diy wc going moldy over time.. my three little beads jars I used are now about a year old and still are fine -micca powder rocks-

      Delete
    3. Do you find you need to vary the proportions depending on the pigment? Watercolour is a tricky beast and I understand each pigment needs different treatment!

      Delete
    4. I do not know that much about Sennelier, however I am confused what the three stars represent here. Does this mean lightfast? Is it on the high end or low end? Most of the brands I use go from 1 to 5 stars. On some brands, the lower number means excellent and others higher number means excellent. In Schmincke, the one I use the most, the high number of stars, the higher the lightfast rating. I also see that you put in LF 1. Is this high or low end and if its high, does that make three stars I'm seeing on here lower? Sorry, I'm just not sure what I'm seeing here. Thanks for what you do.

      Delete
    5. I can see what you mean. Sometimes I get the information from the tubes, sometimes from a website and I don't always do all the swatches at once. In general, if stars are given for lightfast ratings, the more the better so **** os better than *. However if a number is given, lower is better so I is better than II. In these swatches consider the best rating to be either I or *** as Sennelier only goes up to three in their ratings.

      Delete
  4. What proportions have you been using? My formula for earth colors is 1 part gum arabic to 2 parts water, and about 1/2 part humectant, which can be glycerin, honey or both. Then maybe 1/4 to 1/2 tsp of clove oil to about 24oz of liquid medium. I might overdo it a little on the clove oil in those amounts, but it seems to do the trick. Synthetic colors are trickier, I'm still figuring out proportions for some Pyrrole and Quinacridone colors I've got.

    I have used your blog for just about all of my paint buying needs for a while now, thank you for creating such a thorough guide to paint colors! Have you gotten to try any of the Armenian earth pigments from Agulis? I don't think I've seen those colors on your blog yet, and some of them are very interesting. I have a few, Augite Porphyry Violet and Mummy Red Light, which I think might just be the brightest earth orange I've run across so far.

    If you've not gotten to try them yet, I have some paint I've made from them I could send you, or if you're getting into paint making I would be glad to mail you a spoonful of the raw pigments if you're interested?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I was making less than a half pan just to try the colours so was not really worrying about proportions - will do when I make my own paints later this year though!

      I always love to try new paints, but would prefer your hand made ones to just the pigment at this stage. Please send me a message at jane@janeblundellart.com

      Thanks!

      Delete
  5. Hello Jane. Great job with these watches. What colours would you recommend for the three primaries in sennelier? ( Always the same question :)
    I like the honey base of sennelier and here is not very runny because in Portugal the climate is dry enough. The colours are very intense but I think that they could have done a better job in the lightfastness of most of their colours.
    Cheers from Lisbon

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I think you'd explore Primary Yellow, Sennelier Yellow Light or Yellow Sophie along with Rose Madder Lake and Ultramarine as a basic primary triad in this range. I'd also add Burnt Sienna to speed up the mixing :-)

      Delete
  6. Fun fact about brown pink! Turns out it was originally derived from buckthorn berries, also called "Dutch pinks."

    I also want to thank you for taking the time out of your life to tell us about your watercolor discoveries. I've just stumbled upon it, and I must say, I'm an instant fan.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Thank you so much for this wealth of knowledge, Jane. It is truly wonderful to a new watercolorist like me.
    I live in Arizona, US and love the Sennelier paints for use in the hot, dry desert. I've never had trouble with them being runny or not drying. I paint slowly and my original paints just dried too quickly for me.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That's good to know. It's fabulous that we do have such a choice - we can find the right materials to suit so many different needs and climates :-)

      Delete
  8. Jane w8hing ypu a speedy recovery and big fun at PT! I had a small surgery on my dominant hand last year and became quite decent at drawing with my other hand in a very short time. Do give it a try, I actually th8nk it helps your brain and dominant handed drawing later.

    ReplyDelete
  9. Thank you so much for your awesome swatch lists, I have your blog on my favorits next to handprint dot com. Would you happen to know a quin gold mix from the sennelier set 12+6 free? I figured out my schmincke mix and my white nights mix but the properties from this set are so different that I have troubles finding the right shade

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. If I am looking at the right set, it contains Lemon Yellow, French Vermilion, Alizarin Crimson, Carmine, Dioxazine Purple, Ultramarine Deep, Phthalocyanine Blue, Forrest Green, Phtalo. Green Light, Burnt Sienna, Payne’s Grey, Warm Sepia, Naples Yellow Deep, Bright Red, Venetian Red, Cinereous Blue, Raw Umber and Ivory Black. It's rather short on yellows - there isn't a warm yellow or a raw sienna or a yellow ochre. So start with the lemon yellow, add a touch of bright red (a really small touch - just to create a mid yellow) then add burnt sienna to gradually create a neutralised warm yellow. That's my best guess. In this case though, I think is is worth getting the Quin Gold as a full pan to add to the set to fill a gap.

      Delete
    2. The naples yellow deep feels rather warm to me, but to add black and that weird blue in that set was mind puzzeling,plenty of blues to add w/o a white mix in it,lol and black is imho not needed in a palet when you have the purple,forest green,burnt sienna and paynes grey...but thats just me being picky on my single pans when bought seperate. Same for cover sheet,if you make the effort for a plastic sheet-hello environment calling- why not put pigment numbers on it,lol. working on review,so thank you for the fast reply on mix tips https://myinkyplace.blogspot.nl/

      Delete
  10. ps quin gold is worth stacking on any palet. But then again that's just my own addiction. here is a low budget tip. I know the white night paints are different,but I really like the white nights deep gold and their deep rich yellow. I use it for practice all the time. In europe they retail in single pans, not sure if they do in australia as I am not familiar with your options in the big down under.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. White Nights are available in Australia from Larrypost.com.au for AU$4.95 each I think.
      I am not sure which colours you mean but the full range (before the new 2017 colours were added) can be seen here https://janeblundellart.blogspot.com.au/2017/12/st-petersburg-watercolours.html

      Delete
  11. My husband and I recently went to Paris for a week to celebrate our 25th anniversary. While there I made a pilgrimage to the Sennelier mothership. It's tiny and very crowded and the woman behind the counter was frantically trying to help everyone. I asked her where the watercolors were and she handed me a battered hand-painted color chart, a scrap of paper, and a pencil. I chose 3 colors and wrote them down with the color numbers and color names in French. She looked so happy when she saw what I wrote. The watercolors were behind the counter in what looked like an ancient apothecary chest and they must have been organized by number. She held up a 10ml tube. I shook my head and said le grand, s'il vous plait, so she gave me the 21ml tubes. She also gave me a free bamboo brush roll for my patience which was very kind, but really, I'm in Paris, at Sennelier, and I'm going to be in a big rush to get through this experience? Mais non! I was very proud I did this all in French, despite being from Kansas. The Sennelier store is across the street from the Louvre. I recommend it for art lovers if you happen to be in Paris.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Loved the idea that Cézanne and Picasso too squeezed through the narrow entrance to Sennelier to pick up a few supplies. I also think much of the first floor hasn't actually changed in 100 years. The sales people wrap everything individually which is why it can take some time trying to pay, a bit like shopping at a busy market stall on a Saturday morning.

      Delete
  12. What a lovely story. I'll add the shop link to the post. It sounds like the lovely London L. Cornelissen and Son shop, which is an absolute joy to explore.

    ReplyDelete
  13. Shaoli Chatterjee27 January 2018 at 08:24

    I am so grateful for such a detailed post.This helped me immensely while ordering individual colours online. What a great guide!Thank you again.

    ReplyDelete
  14. Does anyone know what is used in the Bright Red? Obviously it is something without a CI number but I'd still like to know what it is and having trouble finding out.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. PR 254 and PO 43, as I've just read in a wetcanvas entry.

      Delete
    2. It’s now listed as PR3

      Delete
  15. Thank You very-very-very much for all Your color charts. So enormously helpful!

    ReplyDelete
  16. Hello Jane. Great job with these watches this post is excellent. I've been following your blog forever and almost never comment, but I have to thank you for this smart, fun post. And June is so cute! Keep up the great work, lady.http://www.kokuyocamlin.com/product/artists-water-colours-33-2.html

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you for the link to Camel watercolours. I haven't tried them but I'll leave the link there in case other readers want to follow up.

      Delete
  17. I found this post when trying to figure out what makes this paint different from M. Graham. I have 1 tube and a small 8 color half pan set from Sennelier. Maybe it is an American thing but I'm used to using tubes and just dab out small drops of whatever color I need on my palette and squeeze out larger portions of the primaries/ most used. When I try my pan set I tend to freeze up and start being more obsessed with trying to keep the paints clean and frustrated when I end up tainting them by getting other colors on the pans. But I don't have this concern when it comes to what I've squeezed out of the tube sets. It is interesting all the comments about the stickiness of honey being a disadvantage, but in the Midwest when winters get dry, the honey mixes don't shrink and flake right off the palette like other paints. I like that they also work well with watercolor grounds/ have good adhesion. I'm curious about this brand, though seem to have ended up with M. Graham and Daniel Smith for about 90% of my watercolor paint collection.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I live in a humid city where we use minimal air conditioning so honey-based watercolours are inclined to develop mould if you are not careful. A dry climate (or a dry studio) wouldn't have this problem.
      I think the Sennelier and the M.Graham are probably quite similar to work with.

      Delete
    2. This is a very old post I know, but replying to it in case anyone else is cyrious about Sennelier vs. M Graham. I've worked with both, in tube form. They are similar in terms of their high luminosity, but M Graham is sticky (even on the brush, in a viscous mix) while Sennelier is not sticky. When panned from the tube, M Graham never fully dries (not even here in the Las Vegas desert), so it's not the best travel paint. Sennelier DOES dry in the pan, to semi-soft consistency (firmer than a gummy bear, but not by much). My "DIY" Sennelier pans do fine for travel, even in humid areas. After trying many brands, Sennelier is my favorite. I feel that the colorway has a special liveliness and it's very fine milled, perfect for botanicals. I like the 10mL tubes too, since 5mL always seems like not quite enough and 15mL seems like too much of a committment and not very travel friendly.

      Delete
  18. Thank you for finishing the chart. Testing all colours and Senneliers are got the right properties for my taste.

    ReplyDelete
  19. I am so great full to you Jane for your generosity in sharing with this community your findings about watercolour paints. Your blogs have saved me many hours of investigating and experimenting to find colours and mixes that suit my work which I feel is just beginning with you demystifying many of my concerns and questions. Thank You!,

    ReplyDelete
  20. very informative article on water colours water colours

    ReplyDelete
  21. Excellent write up, thank you. The Sennelier color chart you linked to, are those colors in order from warmest to coolest? I understand the general idea of it all but can't for the life of me figure out the different shades on my own.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. They run through the rainbow from lightest to darkest going across tow pages. Whites, cool yellows to mid to warm, oranges, orange-reds, mid reds, purple reds, purples then blues, turquoise, greens etc. Then the earth pigments follow - yellow earths, orange earths etc, then the darks, greys and black. Quite logical really, and they way I tend to set up a palette.

      Delete
  22. I have Sennelier full range water colour set. in that only ultramarine light have the staining problem. How I can solve it. I came know Gum Arabic, oxgall is useful for this. Is it true

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I would expect that French Ultramarine might stain. You can use a lifting preparation on the paper to make it easier to lift out colours. I haven't tried it, but I know it exists.

      Delete
  23. Hi Jane,
    I am a big fan of your work and hope to attend one of your workshops in the future. I particularly like the colors you use and the flawless use of value in your beautiful paintings. I'm really struggling with value and am becoming discouraged. I've tried a grey-scale card, but have such difficulty getting darks correct. Do you have any advice for me? I would really appreciate it.
    Victoria

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. i have just begin a 12 week online Mastering Watercolours course that would help you! Have a look here https://www.janeblundellart.com/mastering-watercolours-online-course.html we go into a lot of detail about tone, colour and control.

      Delete
  24. Hello Jane! I always refer to your blog before any watercolor purchase. Thank you so much!!
    I needed some advise, which shade in aquarelle or Mission Gold set will you recommend for 1. A deep crimson 2. A bright turquoise. (I already have Mission Gold manganese blue and Im looking for something even lighter and crisp, maybe even a little towards green side).
    I would have bought daniel smith but just dont have the budget and only these two brands have a good range available in India. Thanks in advance!

    ReplyDelete
  25. Hello Jane, I was wondering what 12 to 15 colours you would suggest of the Sennelier to start with as a beginner with Artist's watercolor. These paints are cheaper than DS here. So thinking of making a palette. I would sincerely appreciate it if you could help me out.

    ReplyDelete
  26. This blog has been very helpful as I am planning to shift to Sennelier. I have their Ultramarine and Burnt Umber (my most used colours)though for most of the time I have been using White Nights which I adore. But I decided to just explore another brand after a year of painting. I like the fact that both are honey based. I live in a very humid environment but haven't had any problems with them. (I do have two cats who are curious when I paint so there's always hair in paints but that's another story!) Roman Szmal is on my list but difficult to obtain and M Graham is equally difficult and very expensive where I live!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The pan colours in Sennelier may be a more familiar way to work with this brand, and save the time setting up colours in your own pans or palette.
      Roman Szmal is available from Jacksons Art in the UK. They ship world-wide. Here is an (affiliate)link https://www.jacksonsart.com/search/?q=roman%20szmal&___store=jacksonsart_en&acc=884d247c6f65a96a7da4d1105d584ddd

      Delete
    2. I came back to this blog (as I often do) but say this comment from 2021. More than a year later, I can say that I now have a Sennelier palette. I love these colours as they are ideal for glazing. I typically use a limited palette so the colours I have are Sennelier Yellow Light (beautiful and transparent), Rose Madder Lake, Helios Purple (more a magenta than purple), Viridian, Hooker's Green, Ultramarine Blue, Cinerous Blue, Burnt Sienna, Burnt Umber. I have them in tubes and though I live by the sea, I haven't had problem with them other than the Cinerous Blue which leaks in a funny way. I would probably do away with it in future though its a beautiful colour and replace with a Pthalo Blue. Overall I think they are great quality and decently priced where I live. The only drawback is that the earth colours are the weak link and lack a certain depth.

      Delete
  27. Hi Jane,

    What is the difference between "Ultramarine Light" and "Ultramarine Deep". Both have same pigment PB29 and both are transparent with LF(I).
    Thanks for your help in advance.

    ReplyDelete
  28. According to Value Market Research, the latest technology trends and global market opportunity analysis in the Phthalocyanine Pigments Market industry growing with a high CAGR in the upcoming year. Our report has categorized the market based on technology, service, development, vertical and region. https://www.valuemarketresearch.com/report/phthalocyanine-pigments-market

    ReplyDelete
  29. I’m confused by warm and cool colors. Could you tell us 2 sets of primary sennelier watercolors, one being warm and the other cool? Thank you :)

    ReplyDelete
  30. I just started my painting lessons for a week now, and I'm excited to learn more. My grandmother was a painter, and she gifted me a set of art supplies such as watercolor and a set of brushes. I wanted to travel and paint amazing views. Thank you for sharing your knowledge about art and recommendations.

    ReplyDelete
  31. Hello Jane! Thank you for your brilliant efford with swatches. I was quite surprised to find them being used by a swedish webstore, with no reference to you. The adress is (remove blankspace) farg . nu/ produkt /kategori/ akvarell/ sennelier-laquarelle-artists- akvarellfarg

    ReplyDelete
  32. I live in France, sennelier is the cheapest opition availble to me, and this post is gonna make my life so much easier choosing my colors. A huge thank you for this hard work. Thank you thank you 😘

    ReplyDelete
  33. Thank you for your thorough (as always!) assessment of these paints. I was thinking of buying a set (Xmas sales) to travel with but worry about their 'wet' quality . . would the pans dry out enough to travel with the day after using? Would cling film be recommended as a safe-guard? Many thanks for your advice.

    ReplyDelete
  34. did you by chance mix up the red violet and the colbalt violet deep/...AS IT LOOKS MORE RED ON YOUR SWATCH...Pv16 + PR122 = ? sennelier purple??? so confused as one is soo blueish and one is sooo reddish...and named reddish...but they seem swapped somehow in your chart here...it this psooble...the reddish on has the PV16 and PR122 and the cobalt blue dark hue has ...just the pv16???I think so...and I just bought the cobalt dark hue...thinking it was the one with the reddish tint...with the PR122....oh boy...a whole pan too...so much wanted that reddish colour...oh well...me thinks you got them mixed Jane...please correct me if i am wrong.

    ReplyDelete